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Coromandel
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Intro


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Coromandel Coast

Coromandel


Quite possibly the perfect destination – sand, surf and surprises. The Coromandel is a beautiful diverse peninsular within a couple of hours of Auckland. Swim in the big blue Pacific Ocean, relax on a white sandy beach, explore impressive Kauri forests, hang out in a café or dig your own hot water pool. Coromandel provides a wealth of contrasts – from the quaint laid back atmosphere of the west coast to the magnificent bold east coast. Grab your boardies, sunnies and jandals and head to the ‘mandel’.

On your way to the Coromandel hold your breath for the trip over the Kopu Bridge (just before Thames). Can you do it? It is a mighty long bridge.

Highlights

  • Hotwater beach
  • Cathedral cove
  • Kauri forests
  • Endless beaches


Don’t forget


Stay/Eat/Drink


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Take the Leap!


Accommodation

Set in a sunny river valley and surrounded by native bush Te Mata Lodge is awesome and is our recommended place to stay in the Coromandel. This place is unique and might not be everyone’s style - but it certainly is ours. A river, complete with swimming holes, flows past the lodge and a short walk through the bush takes you to the coast. The lodge has a bbq and even a fire pit in a clearing in the forest - the perfect place to relax with a few beers after a hard day exploring. Te Mata is on the West Coast of the peninsular, 20 minutes north of Thames and is the ideal place to base yourself while exploring the Coromandel. There is heaps to do around Te Mata Lodge and Tapu - kayaks, volleyball, gold panning, glow worms, river exploring etc... talk to Kathryn and Warwick - they will sort you out. If it is too wet to have a fire at the Lodge then head to the local Tapu pub – we have never been there so let us know how you get on!
 
Alternatively if you would prefer to stay on the East Coast then Whitianga and Hahei have a number of backpackers. Coromandel also has some excellent opportunities for camping. Unfortunately most of the commercial campgrounds on the coast have been recently subdivided to make way for new housing developments - the only remaining ones are at Hahei, Kuaotuna and Hot Water Beach. The Hahei Holiday Resort is right on the beach and has excellent facilities. The camp ground at Kuaotuna is nice and close to the beach while the campground at Hot Water Beach feels rather new - because it is.

The DOC campsites at Fletcher Bay, Waikawau Bay and Stony Bay are all pretty sweet (and cheap), but lack the facilities offered at the commercial campgrounds. There are more DOC campsites up the Kauaeranga Valley. These are set in the forest and have fire places. Take some wood with you as you are not allowed to take it from the surrounding forest. 

Take a tent, save some cash and do what the kiwi's do - camp.

Food and drink

All of the larger small towns (Thames, Coromandel, Whitianga, Tairua, Pauanui, Whangamata etc.) have cafes and food outlets. If camping at one of the remote DOC camps take some tin foil just in case you stay at one with a fireplace. Baked potatos!! Yummy.

If you are staying at Te Mata Lodge why not have a bbq at the lodge – remember to grab some sausages, steak, salad and beer before you get there !

The Coroglen Tavern is well worth a visit if you need an ale. This friendly relaxed establishment won the Best Country Pun in 2008. They were also noimated for the Best Music Venue the same year! Over summer they have lots of good acts playing here.

In Tairua there is an interesting Cafe which sells crepes and sushi - an interesting combo. The savoury crepes are pretty good and they also have waffles.

What to DO



There is a lot to do on the Coromandel peninsula but perhaps one of the best things is that most of the activities are free. If you have a car you can just cruise around checking out the sights without spending much. Sweet!

There is a noticeable different between the rustic laid back west coast of the peninsular and the more developed east coast. However the beaches on the east coast are mint (awesome) so both sides have their attractions.



Thames
 

  • If it's Saturday morning check out the Thames market on the main street – a crazy mix of quality local goods and some real weird crap.
  • While your in Thames township buy each other a second hand shirt from the local RSA 'opportunity shop' (on the main drag) - we challenge you to wear your new (and preferably unsightly) shirt for the rest of the day (send us photos for a special gallery!).
  • If you have time there are some good walks and camping possibilities up the Kauaeranga valley (just south of Thames). Hoffmans pool is also a sweet swimming hole. If you have time you could do the excellent overnight Pinnacles hike (see Adventures).


Continue up the Peninsula

  • The drive along highway 25 follows is a pretty crazy coastal road so be careful! Along the way you will drive past Tapu and Te Mata Lodge.  
  • Just before Coromandel Township is the famous 309 road. This windy dirt road is even more crazy so slow down. The 309 road crosses the peninsula and passes Waiau Falls (a small waterfall) and the Kauri grove (signposted on your left). There is a small carpark on the right. Jump out and do the short walk to the impressive Kauri trees – check out the Siamese Kauri on the way back.
  • If you want to go to Coromandel town you will have to head back the way you came (down the 309 road). 

Coromandel 

  • This funky town has some pretty groovy cafes and some interesting gold mining history.
  • The Driving Creek Railway (trains run at 10am and 2pm) is a sweet little trip along a narrow gauge railway that a local potter built to get access to the clay on his property. Very unique. Very New Zealand.

From here you can drive across to the east coast or you can keep going north to the top of the peninsula (be warned, it is a long drive on a windy dirt road but it’s super remote and pretty cool).

To the Top

  • The road north is sealed until you get to Colville – make sure you stop and check out the quaint local store.
  • North of Colville the road gets pretty rough but it hugs the beautiful coastline so we are guessing you will get over it.
  • The road quite fittingly ends at Fletcher Bay. Nice remote spot. 
  • From here you can follow a coastal walking track to Stony Bay (3 hours one way). There are dramatic coastal views along this easy walk, but you will need to retrace your steps unless you can bribe someone to drive around and pick you up at Stony Bay (be warned it is also a long drive so the bribe better be good).
  • There are DOC camping sites at Fletcher Bay, Waikawau Bay and Stony Bay so if you want to save some cash and hang out in a beautiful spot then this is a good option.
  • If you do want to drive over to Stony Bay you must head back almost to Colville and then follow the road from there. If you do go that way then you might as well return to Coromandel via Kennedy Bay.
  • The road heading south from Kennedy Bay (and back towards Coromandel) is rather steep and has caused our cars to overheat in the past. However the view from the top is pretty nice so it’s not a bad spot to hang out while your car takes a break.




The east coast of Coromandel is famous for its beaches. Lets start up north.

Northern beaches

  • Whangapoua has a sweet beach but New Chums is even better. Park your wheels and walk north along the beach (that’s left if you are facing the sea). New Chums Beach is about 25 minutes walk away - isolated, beautiful and yours to enjoy. Now this is what New Zealand is all about!
  • Further south is Matarangi. Despite having a nice beach this place is a little overdeveloped but there is a great gravel road from here along the coast to the right. Turn right when you arrive Matarangi and then right again. Follow the coast and you will come out at Kuaotunu Bay.
  • Kuaotunu also has a great beach but if you can manage to stay in the car a little longer we have better plans for you. The coastal road now joins up with 25 again. Jump back on it briefly before turning left at the Opito Bay turnoff. Follow the metal road up the hill before dropping down to Otama Beach.
  • Park up when the road first comes close to the beach. This is an awesome spot away from the development that dominates so much of the Coromandel. Hang out here for awhile and then continue round (in the car - it would be a long walk) to the next beach – Opito Bay.
  • Although more developed it is also beautiful. At the extreme eastern end of Opito Bay there is a walk up onto the headland. The views from here are good and if you scramble down the other side, along a very rough track, you will find Crayfish Bay.
  • Crayfish Bay is pretty stony but at the southern end there are some awesome rocks for jumping off into the sea. Check that there is nothing below before you jump as conditions may change.


Whitianga

  • Whitianga is the biggest town on the peninsula so if you need supplies this is a good spot to stop and shop. 
  • There is also a range of accommodation options here and in summer the nightlife can be pretty good.


Coroglen
 

  • Drop into the classic Coroglen Tavern for a brew. Check out their Gig Guide to see who is playing while you are in the area.
  • Not far from Coroglen is Rangihau Ranch - Horse Treks
  • From Coroglen there is a road back to the west coast. This is a good way to get back to Te Mata Lodge if you are staying there. Stop on the way to check out the Square Kauri tree. Be warned this is a typical New Zealand dirt road – gnarly twisting and dangerous. Give the driver a beer when you arrive safely.
     

Hahei

  • The next stop south is Hahei - another sweet beach if you can handle it (and a great place to swim).
  • Just north of Hahei there is the impressive Cathedral Cove. Follow the signs and park your car in the car park. The walk down will take you about 20 minutes (one way) and is well worth it. Be warned however, Cathedral Cove is best at low tide when you can actually walk through the massive archway which gives the beach its name. This is a great place to chill out – don’t forget your camera.
  • At the other end (south) of Hahei beach there is a neat little walk to an old Maori pa – where you can still see evidence of the terraced fortifications.
  • Done Hahei? Okay head south on the road out of Hahei and turn left at the signpost to Hot Water beach. Allow some time to hang out here as it is a very cool spot. Grab a digging implement (anything will do) and head to the beach. If you are there two hours either side of low tide you will see a group of people sitting in pools on the beach – head over and claim your spot. There is thermal water just below the surface so with a little bit of digging you can create a luxurious hot pool. If the tide is too high you will have to wait for it to go out.
  • There is nothing better than going for a refreshing dip in the surf and then running back to bathe in a hot water pool. Be super careful swimming here though – the rips are surprisingly strong (and have even claimed American students in the past!!).
     

Tairua & Pauanui

  • At Tairua – turn left in the middle of the township and head towards the very obvious volcanic cone that rises above the beach. You can follow the road up to the top and then walk/climb the last past – the views are awesome. The town across the estuary mouth is Pauanui - which is where many wealthy Aucklander’s have their holiday homes. More importantly the hill you just climbed is an old Maori pa called Paku – which apparently means ‘women’s breast’.
  • From Tairua you can drive back across to Thames on highway 25 (it becomes 25a).
     

This completes a nice loop of the Coromandel peninsula - if you want to keep going, keep reading.
 

Continue Down the Coast

Whangamata

  • Whangamata is a well known surf town which is hugely popular among young people over new years. The beach is nice.
  • Whangamata Traders on the main road out of town (heading south) is a phenomenal shop with its crazy array of secondhand goods. Definitely stop and buy something.

Waihi

  • Waihi is a historic and once thriving gold mining town. Check out the Martha mine - it is pretty impressive.
  • The beach here is nice.

Karangahake Gorge

  • The drive through the Karangahake gorge is good and there are some excellent hiking tracks here. You could easily spend a few hours here walking through old mine shafts and tunnels. Take a torch and get exploring. The windows walk is particularly good. There is also a camping ground nearby.

Paeroa

  • At Paeroa if you haven’t done so already you must try an L&P – this little town is the birth place of the ‘world famous in New Zealand’ soft drink. Be a tourist for a moment and get a photo of you drinking one in front of the giant L&P bottle.
  • From here you can head northwards on highway 25 to Kopu and turn left to get to Auckland.


GO (further)


Alternative Route to/from Auckland

  • If you are like us and don’t like going home the same way you came then follow the coastal road via Miranda.
  • This area has been made famous by birdwatchers that flock (excuse the pun) to the Miranda bird sanctuary to see the thousands of birds that migrate here from the Artic every year.
  • Kaiaua has a legendary award winning fish and chip shop and provides the perfect place for an easy Sunday feed.

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Comments

Readers have left 10 comments.
 10. The pinnacles hike was spectacular!
Eric David (BU), Unregistered
The pinnacles hike was spectacular. I really liked that hike and the scenery form the top. I wouldn’t recommend hiking at night to everyone, unless you’re down for that type of hike. There’s something really cool about hiking around when you can’t see what’s around you but you know its big and once the sun comes us everything is slowly revealed, and you can see the whole top of the peninsula from the top of the pinnacles.
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:13:56
 9. It was literally the pinnacle of that trip
Mimi Palmore (BU), Unregistered
We did the pinnacles hike at one in the morning. It was awesome because we were doing it at night. We had flashlights and the hike wasn’t that intense. It wasn’t dangerous, but it was a little strenuous. I had much more fun doing it at night than I did hiking back down in the daylight. Looking up when there are no lights around was really awesome. I’m glad we did it that way. It was literally the pinnacle of that trip—it was that good. Dawn was unbelievably beautiful.
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:13:15
 8. Pinnacles Hike is super cool!
Alicia Martell (Villanova), Unregistered
The Pinnacles hike can be super cool if you leave when it's cool out. It’s a pretty strenuous hike if you're not a hiker, so make sure you have water. It was definitely worth it. We watched the sunset above the clouds from the top of the mountain then stayed in the hut at the top.
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:12:04
 7. Waiau Falls was a perfect stop!
Mimi Palmore (BU), Unregistered
Waiau Falls was a perfect stop because it’s right off the road— you walked for like 30 seconds and there it was. It wasn’t that deep but it was ok to jump from as high as you can go, but you have to jump out to avoid hitting the rocks. The water was really refreshing too!
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:08:13
 6. Point Jackson felt like we were on the end of the world
Eric David (BU), Unregistered
Port Jackson was worth the drive. There were good people who gave us fish. It was a beautiful campground on the beach. It felt like we were on the end of the world. We passed through some campgrounds on the way up that were no so hot, so we were glad we drove the extra 30 km.
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:05:12
 5. Sunset at Point Jackson
Mimi Palmore (BU), Unregistered
I recommend Point Jackson. It’s beautiful up there. There’s lots of cows. We climbed to the top of the hills and it’s just farmland and there’s a stream that runs through. We couldn’t find the Maori ruins, but it’s totally worth the drive up. Watching the sunset from the top of the peninsula was really pretty and one of my favorite parts.
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:04:32
 4. Point Jackson was worth the drive out there!
Olivia Charlet (France), Unregistered
Point Jackson at the tip if the peninsula was worth the drive out there because there was no more civilization and you had to drive out a long way and that made it interesting and different. We had to drink water out of the well and our campsite neighbors gave us some fish that they had caught. You could always ask them about different ideas. Overall it was really cool.
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:00:54
 3. Hot Water Beach was like nothing in America!
Alicia Martell (Villanova), Unregistered
It was a weird to experience the hot water coming out of the sand. We burned our feet at first, but then we found the good spots. People would leave their holes and we would sit in them because we didn’t have shovels. I wish I had spent more time there. It was nothing you would ever experience in America, or if you did, they would make you pay.
 Posted 2009-03-11 09:59:55
 2. Cathedral Cove is gorgeous!
Mimi Palmore (BU), Unregistered
Cathedral cove was beautiful. It was very touristy but I could understand why—it’s gorgeous!
 Posted 2009-03-11 09:58:45
 1. Cathedral Cove was surreal!
Olivia Charlet (France), Unregistered
We swam up to the rock at Cathedral Cove and we went into the cave. It was surreal and I’ve never seen places that gorgeous in my life!
 Posted 2009-03-11 09:58:00
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