The first National Park in NZ Tongariro is an iconic landscape of active volcanoes and beautiful lakes amidst a harsh lunar like landscape. But the central plateau is actually so much more than this - with mountains, forests and rivers it really is the place for adventure. Hike NZ's most famous day walk, climb a steaming volcano, try mountain biking and cap it off with an exhilarating white water ride. Tongariro is a MUST see while you are in NZ.
Highlights
Tongariro crossing hike
Volcanoes
Emerald Lakes
Mt Doom
White water rafting
Volcanic Lakes
Don’t forget
To take warm clothes (thermals, hats, gloves and jackets) as the central plateau can be bitterly cold all year round.
The National Park Backpackers is conveniently located in National park village, has good facilities and even has an indoor climbing wall - perfect for when the weather is lousy. There is a pub across the car park and they run shuttle services to and from the Tongariro crossing. What more do you need really?
Alternatively if the weather is good and you want to save some money there is great little DOC camping area at Mangahuia. The facilities are basic, just toilets really, but the camping area is in a beautiful spot beside a bubbling stream.
If you are going hiking then there is a variety of excellent DOC huts situated throughout the park. You can get hut tickets at the Whakapapa Visitor Centre.
Food and drink
While there are a few cafes and restaurants in National Park and at Whakapapa the closest supermarkets are 30 minutes north at Tauramanui or North East in Turangi. If you plan on self-catering make sure you stop and grab some supplies on route.
Tongariro National Park is well known for its exceptionally hiking. There are lots of possibilities from the famous Tongariro Crossing, to longer multi-day trips and numerous short scrambles.
Please note: while you can do these hiking trips in winter they are much more difficult due to the snow conditions. You will need to be experienced in using ice axes and crampons and be preparedfor the cold. The Tongariro Crossing Hike
If you plan on doing the Tongariro crossing hike make sure you check the weather forecast. It really isn't worth doing this hike if the weather is "shite" and there are plenty of better foul weather options.
If you stayed at the backpackers probably the easiest way to do the crossing is to get picked up and dropped off by the Bus Company who run a daily “crossing” service. You can catch a similar bus from Whakapapa Village. The Tongariro crossing is not a loop and while some people drive their cars to the start, walk to the end and then hitch hike back to their car this is not recommended. It is a long walk and the last thing you will want to be doing at the end of it is standing on the side of the road waiting for a non-existent lift. We suggest you pay the $$ and catch the bus.
In good weather this is an amazing hike through dramatic and varied scenery. The hike climbs between two volcanoes, over lava flows, past active craters and beautiful lakes. Along the way there is an option to climb Mt Ngauruhoe (which provided the backdrop for Mt Doom in the Lord of the Rings trilogy) which allows uninterrupted views of the volcanic plateau, Lake Taupo and on a good day Mt Taranaki on the West Coast. In bad weather it is a hard dangerous extremely cold walk with no views and apart from deserving a beer at the pub afterwards no benefits at all. Save it for a good day.
Even on a good day the weather can change rapidly so be prepared. Always take warm clothes, wear suitable footwear and carry food and drink. Any trip into NZ’s mountains is a serious undertaking. Depending on your speed and the route you take this hike will take you from 6 to 9 hours.
The hike starts at Mangatepopo and heads up a pretty valley. After 15 minutes you can take a short detour and check out Mangatepopo Hut. After about an hour you will reach the head of the valley where there is a toilet. A short side trip takes you to Soda Springs, one of only two places to get water on this trip.
The next part of the hike is tough, although DOC have made it easier but changing the route which used to go straight up Devils Staircase. Approximately 30 minutes later, depending on your fitness, you will reach the Mangatepopo saddle. Here, while catching your breath, contemplate whether you want to climb Mt Ngauruhoe (or not).
Climbing Mt Doom (2287 m)
It takes most fit people about 2.5 hours (roundtrip) to climb Ngauruhoe – that is 2 hours up and 30 minutes down J. If the weather is clear it is an awesome and highly recommended adventure, but be warned it is not easy. The best way to go up is to climb on the hard spine of rock that you will see sticking out amidst all the loose rocks. When coming down the easiest way is to come down in the loose material (on the right hand side of the spine when going up). Be very careful not to send rocks hurtling down onto the people climbing below you and equally make sure you watch out for rocks coming down from above. Many people, including Joe, have been hit by falling rocks on the slopes of Mt Doom L.
Onwards
From Mangatepopo saddle the walk crosses the flat expanse of South Crater before climbing steeply up to a high point with excellent views. From here a track to the left takes you to the summit of Tongariro (1967 m). The track now descends steeply, past Red Crater (still considered active) and through the stunning Emerald Lakes.
The hike crosses Central Crater before climbing briefly to the crater rim, passing Blue Lake, and descending once more. The track zigzags its way down to Ketetahi Hut, which provides an excellent place for a break (toilets and water, not to mention the view). From here it is a deceptively long way (1.5 hours at least) down to the car park far below. The last part of the walk passes through Beech forest, which is a nice change from the harsh volcanic landscape.
Time for a beer! You have just completed the most famous one day walk in NZ.
Longer Hikes
There are two excellent longer hikes in the area.
The popular Northern Circuit is a 3-4 day trip that takes in part of the Tongariro crossing.
The Round the mountain tramp is a classic trip. Less busy than the Northern Circuit it is still an excellent and rewarding walk which also takes 4-5 days. It can be done in 2 if you run.
The logical start/finish point for both walks is Whakapapa Village.
Climbing Ruapehu
Another awesome day trip is the climb up Ruapehu. Best done in summer the views from the top are awesome.
If you like this sort of thing then check out the GOOT Challenge: Four peaks in 24 hours. Epic!
Foul weather options
If the weather isn’t kind don’t try your luck, instead try one of these:
Head to Whakapapa Village and check out the information centre – it is pretty cool and contains lots of groovy stuff about volcanoes and the history of the National Park.
There are a number of good walks around here, the best of which is the walk to Taranaki Falls. This 2 hour loop starts off Ngauruhoe Place (behind the Chateau). The walk is best walked in a clockwise direction.
The Silica Rapids walk is also nice. As are the short walks to Tawhai Falls and Mahuia Rapids.
There is a good loop walk around Lake Rotopounamu (on highway 47 on route to Turangi).
The Tongariro River is an excellent grade 3 white water adventure. It is perfect for “new comers” to the sport but because of the beautiful scenery is equally enjoyable for old hands.
Tongariro River Rafting provide a number of options including “self-guided” rafting. A typical trip involves about 2.5 hours on the river.
Mountain biking
There is some great mountain biking in this are. The best track is a 40 km trip through the Tongariro Forest, known as the 42nd Traverse. It is predominantly downhill and ends at a pub. We love it.
Other
At Tokaanu, near Turangi, there are some hotpools, which while commercial and nothing on the Taupo and Rotorua pools, can be relaxing on a gloomy day.
Drive up the Bruce Road to the ski field car park. Part of the Lord of the Rings trilogy was filmed up here.
Tongariro is in the middle of the North Island so a trip here can be combined with missions in all directions.
The cliff jump and hotpools at Taupo (see Rotorua & Taupo ) are close by.
North you will find Owhango (there are some pretty bush walks in the scenic reserve down by the river) and Raurimu. It is not that obvious, unless you stop at the lookout, but Raurimu is famous. Well at least among train enthusiasts who come here to see the Raurimu Spiral. Want to know more? Well you may just have to stop here and find out what we are talking about?
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Readers have left 3 comments.
3. You'll see every kind of scenery on this hike (Northern Circuit Jeff Park (BU), Unregistered
When we were there it was burning hot out with snow-capped mountains. It was a beautiful hike, not very strenuous. You got to experience deserts, forests, glacial lakes, and every kind of environment or scenery on this hike, all in only 3 days.
Posted 2009-03-16 08:23:15
2. Norhtern Circuit Hike feels like you're on another planet Eric David (BU), Unregistered
The Northern Circuit is a decent amount of work, but it’s worth it. The crossing looks pretty and stuff but the best parts for me were the second days when there was nobody on the trails and you’re with your little group and the scenery is changing rapidly going from forest to desert and there’s no one there besides you. It feels like you’re on another planet.
Posted 2009-03-11 09:34:37
1. Felt like a movie. It had to be fiction (Northern Circuit Hike) Allsion Young (UNC Chapel Hill), Unregistered
Every single bend there was a new mountain or a new lake-- it was unbelievable. I took so many photos. We felt like we were in a movie because there's nowhere else where you see landscapes like this--it had to be fiction. We'd go for hours and not see anyone else. It was a tough hike but worth it ten times over.