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Bay of Islands
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Intro


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Bay of Islands

Bay Of Islands


With 150 islands, beautiful beaches and clear water the Bay of Islands is one of New Zealand’s must see destinations. The region has a lot of Maori history and was essentially the birthplace of New Zealand.

However the “Bay” is only a small part of Northland, so if you have time make sure you go all the way to the top of the country (see the Far North section). There is so much to do in Northland it could easily warrant two (or more) weekend or longer trips!


Highlights

  • Swimming with Dolphins
  • The hole in the rock
  • Chilling on the beach
  • Romantic Russell
  • Early NZ history


Get out of town! 

Basically there are two ways of getting to the Bay of Islands; via the West Coast (see the Kauri Coast section) or via the East Coast. The West Coast route is longer and slower (due to the crazy roads) while the East Coast way is faster and more straight forward. We recommend that you do a loop. Go up the more scenic West Coast and then come back via the East Coast. This loop is known as the Twin Coast Discovery Highway.

Both options involve you driving North over the Harbour Bridge on SH1. If you want to go west then turn left when onto SH12 when you get to the Brynderwyn hill. Otherwise SH1 takes you straight to the Bay of Islands.


Travel times

It will take you 4.5 hours at least to get to the Bay of Islands via the West Coast (and that is just driving time). It is approximately 3 hours to the Bay of Islands straight up SH1.

Stay/Eat/Drink


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Away from it all

Accommodation

Paihia is the main tourist centre in the Bay of Islands. There are a number of backpacker hostels close to the action. We always try to stay at the Saltwater - which is a good option, handy to everything and run by friendly people.

Another option would be to stay across the water in Russell - this is a lot quieter so won't suit party types.

There are a number of camping grounds in the area but none very close to town. One good option is to camp at Aroha Island near Kerikeri - this is place has kiwis and if you are quiet there is a good chance you might see one at night.

Food and drink

When you get to Paihia you will find a host of cafes and restaurants. The major towns all have supermarkets. Paihia also has some pretty good nightlife – your hostel will probably give you free drink vouchers and point out the best places to go. Paihia also has a big supermarket although it is on the outskirts of town and is a reasonable walk.

The whole way up the East coast to Paihia you will pass through sizable towns with shops etc.

Don’t forget

  • Sunscreen – Northland is known as the “winterless north” so chances are you will find some sun.
  • If you want to spot a kiwi take a torch and cover it with red cellophane (this is a real possibility if you go to Aroha Island.

What to DO



There is lots to do in the Bay of Islands and our only recommendation is that to see the Bay of Islands properly you really need to go out on a boat.
 

There are heaps of adventure options to get you out into the “Bay”. Do a Fullers Cruise out to the Hole in the Rock or go swimming with dolphins. The Excitor or MacAttack trip is a personal favourite of those involved in GOOT. Most of the great activities in the Bay of Islands can be booked through Pete at Sportsfish NZ (who we also use on a regular basis). GOOT Passport Holders get generous discounts on anything booked through Sportsfish NZ
 
A more comprehensive list of options includes:

  • Fullers crusies - check out www.dolphincruises.co.nz
  • Parasailing
  • Skydiving
  • Kayaking
  • Sailing
  • Fishing
  • For a full on day take a bus trip up to Cape Reinga via 90 mile beach (only do this if you are not planning on coming back to go to the Far North). These trips are great but personally we feel that this area of NZ is so good it deserves more attention than a whistle stop bus trip. 

Don't forget to book through Pete at Sportsfish NZ

This area is really where NZs history began. The first contact and trade between Maori and Europeans took place here and Russell was NZ's first capital city. Hence this is an important area historically.

  • Take the ferry to historic Russell. Learn about its interesting history and see if you can spot the musket holes in the church. Climb up Flagstaff hill and see the flagstaff that Hone Heke cut down four times. Check out Pompallier House.
  • Paddle a traditional Maori waka and have a unique cultural experience.
  • Visit the Waitangi Treaty house and grounds - where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed in 1840.


  • Relax on the beach or go for a swim. The best beach is called Long Beach and is a short walk over the hill from Russell.
  • Check out Haruru falls – a nice waterfall located a few kilometres inland. Take the road past the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, through the golf course and you will see it after a few kilometres on your left.
  • Go for a walk - the best track goes south along the coast from Paihia to Opua. The track proper starts just after the bridge at the next beach south of Paihia. You will either need to walk around the rocks or over the hill to find it.

GO (further)



There is also some good places to visit in the surrounding area. For more details about what lies north of the Bay of Islands check out the Far North section.

Kaikohe

  • At Ngawha Springs there are some interesting but rather run down hot pools. These feature in the classic NZ documentary "Kaikohe Demolition".

Kerikeri

  • Kerikeri is a nice town well known for its kiwifruit and oranges.
  • It has the oldest remaining stone building in NZ, the stone store, and the oldest wooden house, Kemp house.
  • Rainbow falls are nice and there is a good walking track here.
  • Aroha Island has a camping ground and provides the opportunity to see kiwis at night.

Puketi Forest

  • North-west of Kerikeri is the Puketi Forest. This is a nice piece of bush and is also home to the GOOT Challenge: The Puketi Punisher.

Rawhiti

  • This tiny coastal town is a short drive from Russell (via the Opua car ferry).
  • Here you will find the Whangamumu Scenic Reserve which has a good walk to an old historic whaling station.
  • Further north is beautiful Oke Bay and the start of an overnight hike to Cape Brett. Here you can stay in an old lighthouse keepers house. It is an excellent walk but you do have to pay to do it as it crosses private land.
  • The beaches out here are beautiful. Elliots Bay can have good surf.

Between Auckland and the Bay of Islands there is lots to do and see. Here are a few suggestions for things to do along the way. This section is presented going north from Whangarei.

  • Just south of Whangarei there are some cool little caves (Waipu caves) and Uretiti beach (signposted) provides a fantastic place to take a break. It is close to the main highway and has endless white sand, good swimming and toilets. Be warned this is a nudist beach so don’t be surprised or alarmed if some folks don’t have their clothes on. 
  • In Whangarei stop and check out the town basin and Whangarei Falls.
  • If you have time do trip out to Whangarei Heads. Ocean Beach is just that – a wild beautiful ocean beach, the walk to Smugglers cove is sweet and climbing Mt Mania provides great views over the surrounding area.
  • Tutukaka has a nice marina and is the centre for diving and fishing in the area. The diving here is particularly good and the Poor Knights are said to be one of the top ten spots in the world. Dive! Tutukaka are a well known and reputable operator.
  • Check out the famous Hundertwasser toilets in Kawakawa.

Alternative route North

  • Just north of Whangarei, at Whakapara, you can turn off to the right and follow the road out towards Helena Bay.
  • This is a spectaculour (albeit much slower drive) which takes in some great coastline, including Mimiwhangata Coastal Park (to the south) and Whangaruru North Head Scenic Reserve (to the north) which has camping.
  • You can follow the road all the way north to Rawhiti and from there head to Russell.
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Readers have left 15 comments.
 15. Tane Mahuta is cool to see, but not a destination
Susan Green (BU), Unregistered
If you’re passing by Tane Mahuta anyway, it’s cool to see, but it’s not a destination.
 Posted 2009-03-16 12:01:17
 14. Tane Mahuta-- the huge amazing tree
Geneva Tavakoli (BU), Unregistered
Tane Mahuta was a fast, interesting and overall a good stop. You literally had to walk five seconds to see this huge amazing tree.
 Posted 2009-03-16 11:59:58
 13. Dolphin Watching is a great way to see the Islands
Jaimie Collum (BU), Unregistered
From the Dolphin Watching boat we got to see the whole Bay of Islands and then we went to a private island and swam on the beach and we saw the dolphins. Also, when we were waiting for the boat the jumped off the pier which was pretty fun.
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:46:26
 12. Dolphin Watch at the Bay of Islands was cool
Olivia Charlet (France), Unregistered
The Dolphin Watch at the Bay of Islands was cool. They took us to a little deserted island and it was kind of crazy to see the beaches. We got to swim off of the island. The boat ride was pretty fun too because it was rollercoaster-ish.
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:45:18
 11. Treaty of Waitangi tour was stuff I had already learned
Alicia Martell (Villanova), Unregistered
The activity with the boat paddles at the Treaty grounds would have been great if we were five years old. The Treaty tour was a recap of stuff I had already learned.
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:44:07
 10. Go to Waitangi on Waitangi Day!
Jaimie Collum (BU), Unregistered
It was really cool to be in Waitangi for Waitangi Day. We met some Maori people, and there were some peace marchers. It was kind of like a fair in the US but without all the food stands and stuff, so it was more of a place for everyone to hang out. We had a tui tui fritter and I don’t even know what the hell tui tui is but was really good and the locals were excited that we were trying the food.
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:41:43
 9. Haruru falls
Eric David (BU), Unregistered
I’ve seen waterfalls five inches tall better than that.
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:40:33
 8. Haruru falls is nothing special
Liana Chen (BU), Unregistered
Haruru falls was not worthwhile. I feel like I’ve seen this before--in Canada.
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:39:44
 7. Kayaking is fun way to get out on the ocean
Hector Dimaunahan (BU), Unregistered
Kayaking at the Bay of Islands with Bay Beach Hire was really fun, but I thought we would be able to go more places- further than just to Russell and back and to a deserted island. It's a fun way to get out on the ocean, but you don't get to see as many of the islands.
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:33:28
 6. Kayaking at the Bay of Islands was the highlight of the weekend!
Eric David (BU), Unregistered
Kayaking with Bay Beach Hire in Paihia was awesome. That was the highlight of the weekend for me.
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:31:21
 5. Pompellier House Tour blew my mind!
Eric David (BU), Unregistered
Our tour guide at the Pompellier House was really good. She told us where words like uppercase and lowercase originated, which blew my mind.
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:29:28
 4. The Pompellier House turned out to be great
Olivia Charlet (France), Unregistered
The Pompellier House turned out to be great. I came out of there thinking it was pretty interesting. The guide was good at bringing up stuff that we could relate to and I liked how it was so interactive. People got pretty into it.
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:28:48
 3. Learned some cool stuff at the Pompellier House Tour
Jeff Park (BU), Unregistered
When she had me pick the top off a barrel full of urine at the Pompellier House Tour I was unsure how it would be, but it really picked up after that and she dropped some cool knowledge on us.
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:27:01
 2. Excitor Speed Boating!
Lily Bean (BU), Unregistered
We spent the first five minutes of the Excitor Speed Boat ride laughing our asses off and we were drenched to the bone by the end! Perfect for a hot day and a great way to see the Bay of Islands!
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:26:04
 1. Excitor Speed Boating -- the time of my life!
Sally Pfizer (BU), Unregistered
We went speed boating in the Bay os Islands and I was laughing and screaming the whole time. I had the time of my life!
 Posted 2009-03-11 10:24:35
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