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Intro


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Top of NZ

The Far North


The far north of NZ contains a variety of attractions including Cape Reinga, “90 mile beach”, massive sand dunes, and an abundance of marine life. This part of New Zealand is pretty remote but the rewards for those who make the effort to get there are worth it. Great campsites and awesome beaches await those heading to the top of the country.

 

Highlights

  • 90 mile beach
  • Cape Reinga
  • Matai Bay
  • Taupotupotu Beach
  • Te Paki Sand Dunes
  • Kayaking


Travel:

If time is not a problem why not combine a trip to the Bay of Islands with a visit to the Far North. Allow a good few days to see this area as it takes a long time to drive from Auckland to the top of NZ and there is so much to see along the way.

Stay/Eat/Drink


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The Winterless North

Accommodation

If you are heading to the far north then take a tent. There are numerous camping grounds and DOC sites. The DOC camping area at Taupotupotu is one of the best places to camp in New Zealand. Matai Bay is also an amazing spot and has a nice DOC camp as well. Rarawa Beach is another good camping option. There are lots of other commercial camping grounds and backpackers along the way.

Food and drink

When camping you will need to self cater. The major towns all have supermarkets and you will find smaller stores and the odd cafe dotted around the place. Kerikeri and Kaitaia are your best bets for supplies..

What to DO


This section contains information about what to do in the region north of Kaitaia. See the GO (further) section for details about the neighbouring area.

Kaitaia 

  • Kaitaia is the only town of any size in the Far North but it is pretty small. While it has  shops, backpackers and a supermarket you are more likely to find nearby Ahipara more appealing.

Ahipara

  • This is a cluster of houses at the southern end of 90 mile beach.
  • There is a camping ground on the beach and the surfing here can be pretty good. The legendary surf beach "Shippies" is just around the rocks.
  • There is an awesome quad biking trip here that takes you on a crazy trip through varied terrain including forest tracks and down massive dunes before returning along the beach. If you have time it is definitely worth it.
  • The Ahipara Adventure Centre have quad bikes, surf boards and even blow carts for hire.

Te Aupouri Peninsular

  • This is an impressive stretch of land that was once all water. In the last 2 million years sand has accumulated to join, what were islands, to the mainland. You can either drive up 90 mile beach or follow the inland road. We suggest you go up the beach and come back down the road (or vice versa if the tides are not suitable). Please see the note below about hire cars.
  • To go up the beach head north along highway 1F before turning left towards Waipapakauri. This road ends at 90 Mile Beach and provides excellent vehicle access to this spectacular stretch of sand. Before highway 1F was built the only way to get to the top of NZ was along the beach. 90 Mile Beach remains a legal road, the speed limit is 100 km/hour and all the normal road rules apply. Just watch out for sunbathers!  

Note: Hire cars are not allowed on 90 Mile Beach – don’t risk it. The beach (and tide) have claimed many cars in the past and if it claims your hire car this will be one expensive trip. If however you are lucky enough to own the car you are in then driving up (or down) the beach is an awesome, albeit risky, experience. Make sure you read the instructions below.
 

Driving on 90 Mile Beach

  • Driving on the beach is only possible 2 hours either side of high tide (and is not recommended during storm conditions). Check the tide tables.
  • Do not drive on the beach if it is raining or forecast for rain. Te Paki stream, which provides access to and from the beach at the northern end, rises very quickly during rain.
  • Watch out for patches of soft sand and also the small streams that flow across the beach. These streams often incise into the beach and hitting one of these at speed could well render your car useless. 
  • This “beach” road is only really recommended for 4WD vehicles – you are likely to pass the rusting hulks of those cars that tried but didn’t make it. 
  • Although driving on the beach may seem fine the northern access is via Te Paki stream. That’s right you have to drive up a stream. Normally this is fine but make sure you do not stop in the stream (maintain momentum) otherwise you are likely to sink. 
  • Salt water and sand is not kind on cars – make sure you wash your car thoroughly after driving on the beach. There are good washing facilities at the large Kauri café and shop (on your left north of Waipapakauri). These are used by all the tour bus companies so get pretty busy in the afternoon. The public can also use them for a small fee (ask at the shop).
  • 90 Mile Beach is actually 90 kilometres long. Once you are on it the beach all looks very similar and it is almost impossible to work out how far you have traveled. The Bluff (you won’t miss it) is about two thirds of the way up the beach between Waipapakauri and Te Paki.
  • The Te Paki access route is marked by a small sign and Te Paki stream. If you run out of beach you have gone too far – you will need to back track a few kilometres.
     

Onwards

  • If you don’t take the beach then the drive north along highway 1F is nice. If you need a break there are nice beaches at Henderson Bay and Rarawa. As you travel further north the impressive white sands of Parengarenga will come into view – these massive dunes of silica sand are used for making glass. 
  • At Waitiki landing there is a shop, petrol station and also boogie boards (for sand boarding) for hire. North of here the roads get pretty rough so be careful.
  • Just north of Waitiki landing a road to the left will take you down to the fantastic Te Paki sand dunes. This place is awesome with massive sand dunes and great views to the coast. The biggest of these dunes rise almost 150 metres above sea level and provide the perfect spot for sand boarding. Grab a boogie board and spend some time sliding around this natural playground. Our particular favourite is to slide down the dunes and try and make it across the stream at the bottom – just watch out for tour buses who also use the stream as an access road for 90 Mile beach.
  • From the Te Paki turnoff it is a short drive “to the top”. Take the turnoff (signposted to the right) to Taupotupotu and drive down the hill to this amazing beach. There is a great DOC campsite here, with toilets and cold showers. The beach is awesome and occasionally has surf. From here there is a great 2 hour walk to Cape Reinga and the top of NZ (follow the track which starts at the left-hand end of the beach). This is the best way to arrive at the top of NZ. See if you can talk somebody into driving and giving you a lift back (a few beers should be a big enough bribe).
  • Alternatively you can all jump in the car and drive to Cape Reinga. This is a pretty awesome spot and represents the top of NZ. Get a photo by the iconic lighthouse and gaze out over the Colombia bank. This is where the Pacific Ocean and Atlantic Sea meet. Cape Reinga is sacred to the Maori people so please respect their wishes – you are not allowed to consume food north of the totem pole at the southern end of the car park. Cape Reinga certainly has an end of the world feel to it – its only drawback is that it is super popular with tourists. Try to get here early or late in the day and get real feel for the place. Cape Reinga has toilets, a post box and very little else.
  • There is another excellent walk that links Cape Reinga, Te Werahi beach, and Cape Maria Van Dieman with an access track off the main road (see map). This varied and interesting walk will take you approximately 4-5 hours.
  • If you have time Spirits Bay (sign posted from Waitiki landing) is an awesome stretch of white sand. There is another DOC camping ground here.
  • Once you have explored the top of NZ return via either highway 1F or the beach (access down Te Paki stream).
     

Note:
Cape Reinga is not actually the northern most point of NZ – that honour falls to the Surville Cliffs 30 km to the east.
 

GO (further)



Between Paihia and Kaitaia

Kerikeri

  • Kerikeri is home to Keri Orange and lots of kiwi fruit. This pretty agricultural town is well eqipped and is worth a visit. Probably the most interesting spot is down by the town basin. Here you will find both the oldest stone building in NZ (the Stone Store 1833) and NZ’s oldest wooden house (Kemp house 1821). Just across the one lane bridge there is a nice 4 km walk up the Kerikeri river which leads to the Fairy pool and Rainbow Falls (these can also be reached from Waipapa Road).
  • Nearby is Te Aroha Island where there is a camping ground and the chance to see kiwi.
  • Just North of Kerikeri is the Puketi forest which has nice walks and is home to the GOOT Puketi Punisher Challenge.

Matauri Bay

  • For a more scenic trip north turn right off highway 10 at the signpost for Matauri Bay. Following a crazy winding road down to this spectacular white sandy beach. This is a great place to chill out or do the nice walk to the Rainbow Warrior memorial (it goes up the hill at the northern end of the beach). Drive back up the hill (the way you came down) before turning right and continuing onto Mahinepua Peninsular. There is another nice walk here - which leaves from the car park and head outs along this beautiful peninsular.

Tauranga Bay

  • The next detour is Tauranga Bay – this is another nice sandy beach with a good camping ground. Nearby at Orua Bay Richard Israeli (originally from Hawaii) runs Northland Sea Kayaking with trips along this fantastic stretch of coastline (sea caves, harbours, beaches and even dolphins). Richard also has an awesome little house (no power), complete with an outdoor toilet, which he sometimes rents out to lucky people. If you backtrack to the Tauranga Bay turnoff you can continue along the road and rejoin highway 10 just north of Kaeo.

Whangaroa Harbour

  • Just north of Kaeo a bridge takes you across the upper reaches of the Whangaroa Harbour – this beautiful harbour is best seen by boat (or Kayaks – see above) but for people with time there is also a nice overnight hike here. The track starts in Totara North and makes its way along an interesting track through bush to an arm of the Whangaroa Harbour. DOC’s Lane Cove Cottage provides a unique place to stay and the climb up Dukes Nose (behind the cottage) provides excellent views of the area (contact DOC for more information).

Manganui

  • Continuing north on highway 10 take the loop road (to the right) through Mangonui. This historic fishing village (the name means “big shark”) is the home of northland’s most famous fish and chip shop. All the main operators stop here in the evening so it can get pretty busy. It is a great place for lunch.

Karikari peninsular

  • After driving through Cable Bay, Coopers Beach and Taipa take the tunoff to the right and head out along the Karikari peninsular. Matai Bay at the end of the peninsular is one of northland’s most beautiful beaches. The twin horseshoe cove is picturesque and has great swimming. There is also a basic DOC campsite here which is a great place to stay except over Christmas and new years when it is much too busy (and should be avoided). On the other side of the peninsular remote Puheke beach is also beautiful and the climb to the top of Puheke hill provides rewarding views of the whole area.

Hokianga to Kaitaia

  • Continuing on highway 12 from Opononi, watch out for Maori pa (fortified villages) as you go, and then turn left (signposted) to Rawene.
  • Catch the Rawene car ferry across to Kohukohu. The ferry departs on the half hour (until 7:30 pm in summer and 5:30 pm in winter) but the actual timing of each trip is actually pretty relaxed (either earlier or later). Aim to get there a little early to make sure you get on (it isn’t a big ferry). Rawene is an interesting place and will keep you occupied while you wait. The Boathouse café is great, although it closes pretty early.
  • We don't know Kohukohu particularly well but from what we've heard it might be well worth a stop as a place with history, culture and arts with accommodation, cafes and a pub. Check out local gallery Village Arts which from it's website appears to have some great exhibitions.
  • From Kohukohu follow the winding gravel roads back to highway 1, turn left and head into Kaitaia. From here make your way out to Ahipara and your first glimpse of 90 mile beach.

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Comments

Readers have left 5 comments.
 5. Sandboarding was one of the funnest things ever!
Raquel Hakim (Rollins College), Unregistered
The Te Paki dune sandboarding was so awesome. Our five-person run down the dunes was sweet. When we were coming down all of us made a circle on the dunes. It reminded me of what you do when you’re skydiving. I don’t know if I was screaming or if anyone else was screaming, but it was one of the funnest things I’ve done in my life!
 Posted 2009-05-07 08:54:31
 4. Tapotupotu Campground to Cape Reigna hike
Becky Song (BU), Unregistered
The Tapotupotu campground was nice. I liked that it was right next to the beach and next to the hike to Cape Reigna, which was sweet. The hike wasn’t easy like we expected—it was steep, but worth it and beautiful.
 Posted 2009-04-21 10:40:25
 3. Northland Sea Kayaking: an unparalleled experience
Katherine King (BU), Unregistered
I really liked the cabin we stayed in with Northland Sea Kayaking. The picturesque beauty along side the rustic cabin gave me an experience unparalleled to any other so called true-kiwi camping. Richard was knowledgeable and had no problem teaching an amateur how to fillet the fish we caught off the back of our kayak!
 Posted 2009-03-25 10:30:41
 2. Northland Sea Kayaking was personable and remote
Becky Song (BU), Unregistered
I really liked the cabin we stayed at at Richard's place and how remote it was and that a big group of us could stay in the same room and bond. The kayaking was really good and Richard was cool, we had to chisel at his shell a little bit but when he busted out the coffee and hot chocolate, we knew he liked us. I wish it was a little longer, we were only out for a half day. It felt personable and it was nice to be with a guide in such a remote area.
 Posted 2009-03-25 10:30:02
 1. Te Paki sand dunes
Katherine King (BU), Unregistered
The Te Paki sand dunes were huge! I wished they had an elevator because then I would have done it over and over again.
 Posted 2009-03-17 10:17:11
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