Seperating Christchurch from the West Coast is a long chain of mountains and driving West along SH 73 you wonder where the road could go to get your through these huge hills. The road finds a way though and it's a stunning drive through Arthurs Pass. As well as being a spectaculour drive, there are also excellent hikes here in summer and fantastic ski/boarding in winter.
There are a few accommodation options in Arthurs Pass.
Mountain House Backpackers is good. They're located in Arthurs Pass township, ph: 03-318 9258. Mountain House also offer a shuttle service, i.e. they can drop you off and pick you up from various trail heads in the area if you'd rather not rely on sticking out your thumb...Prices vary depending on where they collect/ drop you and how many of you there are.
There are a number of DOC camping sites, including:
- Free sites at:
Lake Pearson (35km East of Arthurs Pass/110km-ish West of CHCH);
Greyneys (6km South of Arthurs Pass Village or approx 140km from CHCH);
Kelly Shelter (approx 20kms after Arthurs Pass village, look out for a drive on the left, when heading West).
- There's also cheap Doc campsites at:
Hawdon Shelter (24km East of Arthurs Pass/120km-ish West of CHCH, $6/person/night);
Klondyke Corner (8km East of Arthurs Pass/137km-ish West of CHCH, $6/person/night);
Avalanche Creek Shelter (in Arthurs Pass village, $6/person/night).
These campsites often only have water collected from streams or a tap with water you'd need to treat. Either take a few extra water supplies or some method of treating the water you collect.
The local walking tracks are well serviced with DOC huts.
EAT/DRINK:
There aren't too many options for eats in Arthurs Pass...but:
The Wobbly Kea has a range of meals,
There's also a restaurant and bar at the Arthurs Hotel.
The Arthurs Pass store has a cafe, with internet. There is a small store attached as well, though it'd be better to not rely on this and stock up in CHCH or Greymouth.
These places are all within about 100meters of each other (Arthurs Pass is small!) so wander around and see what tickles your tastebuds!
At 924 m Arthurs Pass village is high. This is a mountain environment and so not surprisingly most of the things to do are based around the mountains.
STOMP:
Stop in at the Arthurs Pass DoC Visitors Centre (On the main road in the Village, you can't miss it) for info. about each of the hikes/walks and to leave your intentions for the longer trips. Don't forget to sign out or call them once you're out safe :)
If you are getting amongst the outdoors in any part of the South Island, please be aware of Didymo (also known as 'rock snot'). This invasive, fresh water algae is in many parts of the South Island wilderness but it's spread can be slowed with your help. Check out www.biosecurity.govt.nz/didymo for info. on how to clean your gear.
This area is well known for its excellent hiking opportunities. Some of the most recommended include:
- Mingha/Deception (a.k.a Goat Pass). This trip forms part of the Speights Coast to Coast - a multi-sport mission that has folk tramping(running), kayaking and cycling from the West Coast of NZ to the East Coast. This trip is a good one to do if you've got moderate fitness, map reading, route following (it's only a route in places) and river crossing experience. The track follows both the Mingha and Deception rivers up and over the Southern Alps which will allow you to say you've walked from the one side of the country to the other. There's great scenery too. Because this track follows both rivers which flood easily it cannot be done after, during or just before rain so check the weather and expect to get wet (when Southern GOOT Girl Kate did it, she was wet up to her waist!). The topomap you'll need is Otira K33. The track can be done both ways and there's a hut (Goat hut) in the middle if you want to make it an overnighter - a one day trip is a big day and you'll need to be fit! To get to the start/finish at the East Coast end, it's off SH 73, about 5kms East of Arthurs Pass village. The West Coast start/finish is about 5kms West of Otira township (which is west of Arthurs Pass), you head over the bridge. It's not a good idea to leave your car at either start/finish point due to the unfortunate possibility of thieves, ask at Arthurs for drop-off/pick-up options.
- Cass Lagoon. This is another good Arhturs Pass option option, though this track actually takes you into Craigieburn Forest Park. It can be done as a 3 day trip but is easily an overnighter. The track takes you through some beautiful country and gives you great views, especially over the Waimakariri River when stomping up/down at the track end nearest to Arhturs Pass. This is a popular mission to do when it's wetter over the Western side of the hills as it can often be dry in this area. Like the Mingha/Deception it is not a loop so you'll need to suss transport and again, it's not the best idea to leave your car in the carparks, or at least with valuable stuff inside. The start finish is from the carpark to the left of the road about 120kms from CHCH, or the other start/finish is 133kms from CHCH, down the road leading to the Arthurs Pass Wilderness Lodge.
- Avalanche Peak (6-8 hours). This is a good grunt of a hike up to the summit of Avalanche Peak. It will give you views of the surrouding mountains, waterfalls, and some great NZ forest. The track is best done in the summer (check out the name of the peak!) as it's a steep and rocky track so make sure you are prepared. The track starts near (to the North of) the DoC Visitors Centre which sits at around 920meters above sea-level. Avalanche Peak summit is at 1833meters so you'd best stretch your calves before starting out! When you see them, follow the yellow marker poles which go right to the summit. There are also other marker poles for the alternative Scotts Track which is another way up/down but make sure you have a plan, good track details and a map (from either the DoC website or Visitors Centre) so you know where you are and what you're doing. If you choose this hike, you'll be rewarded for your uphill mission!
- Anti-crow Hut. This is a good, mellow mission following an easy track up the Waimakariri River from the bridge that crosses it near Arthurs Pass. It'll take you about 2 hours to get to the 6-bunk hut which, while relatively close to the main road, feels like a world away. The views of the surrounding hills are stunning! Get hut tickets at the Arthurs Pass DoC office or before you head off. The start of the track leaves from the car-park at the Eastern side of the Waimakariri bridge.
There's HEAPS more mulit-day missions to be done in the Arthurs Pass region, check out the DoC website for info. For all info. on the tracks listed here, for other options and hut tickets head in to the DoC office in Arthurs Pass village. Dont forget to leave your intentions too, and to sign out once you've finished your trip safely.
Some popular short walks around Arthurs Pass include:
- Devils Punchbowl Waterfall. Don't be put off by the name of this walk - this is an easy walking track which will take about an hour return. The track goes through beautiful Mountain Beech forest and takes you to the base of the waterfall. To get there, look for the signpost just North of Arthurs restaurant.
- Bridal Veil. This is an easy walk which again takes you through Mountain Beech forest. This track is slightly longer though and will take around 1 & 1/2 hours. You get a good view back over the village about 20minutes into the track. The track starts from the same place as Devils Punchbowl.
- There are other short walks in Arhturs Pass, check out the Visitors Centre for more info. or the DoC website.
SNOW:
Dotted amongst the mountains surrounding Arthurs Pass Village there's also loads of club fields that are excellent for skiing and snowboarding. Club fields are smaller, and far more 'kiwi', than the larger commercial fields, so if you've spent a bit of time on snow and can capture the concept of 'nutcracker' rope tows, check out:
Temple Basin: About 8kms West of Arthurs Pass Village is the carpark off State Highway 73. You have to walk up to the field (about 40minutes) and lodges but it's a beautiful walk. There's a goods lift about 500meters West down the road that can take your gear up. Check out www.templebasin.co.nz for info.
Craigieburn: This field is 110kms from Christchurch along Highway 73. Look out for the sign that will take you 6kms up a windy road, to the field. www.craigieburn.co.nz is their site where you can get more info.
Broken River: Shortly before Craigieburn is Broken River. About 8kms after Castle Hill Village you'll come to the Broken River turn-off (left of the road heading West), head down this road which will take you 6kms through native forest to the car-park. Like Temple Basin, it's a short walk (15ish minutes) to get to the lodges. Also like Temple Basin, there's a goods lift for you so you don't need to carry your gear. Once you've picked it up, it's only another 5 minute stroll to the field. You can get more info. at www.brokenriver.co.nz
Mt Cheeseman: This field is only about 1.5kms on from Castle Hill Village (about 99kms from CHCH). The access road is off to the left, heading West, of Highway 73. This road will take you about 12kms inland and to the carpark and field and also past a lodge which is set up as backpacker accommodation www.mtcheeseman.com for more info.
Porter Heights: Just past Lake Lyndon, near Porters Pass itself, is the access road to Porter heights field. The road is clearly signposted and will take you up to the field. If you don't want to fit chains to your car they operate a shuttle from the chain-iftting area to the field. Choice :) Check out www.skiporters.co.nz for all this and more info.
Note: Most of these club fields don't have gear rental. If you don't have your own, check out some of the rental stores in Christchurch or other Southern cities. The fields with access roads off Highway 73 may require snow chains, check this out before you head off.
OTHER STUFF:
No doubt you will see a Kea. These cheeky mountain parrots have a habit of stealing shiny things and destroying unattended cars (watch out!)
One of the best ways to experience Arthurs Pass and the Main Divide (Southern Alps range) is to do the trip from Christchurch to Greymouth by train. It's an incredibly beautifuyl trip which allows you to look out the window instead of having to watch the road. Check out www.tranzscenic.co.nz
Not long after Arthurs Pass you'll come across the the Otira Viaduct - a feat of engineering, it'll have you testing your car brakes.
About 35kms on from Arthurs Pass is the turn off to Lake Brunner and a scenic alternate route to get to Greymouth or to bypass Greymouth and head North towards Reefton and beyond. Both routes to get you to Greymouth are beautiful so flip a coin...
EAST:
Not long after Arthurs Pass (about 12kms) there's a pub called the Bealey Hotel. This place is renowned for stopping in for a pint on the way East or West (remember though, if you drink and drive, you're a bloody idiot)
Once you get on to the Canterbury plains (you'll know you're there because it's really flat!) you'll pass through some small rural towns before getting to the big smoke. Stop in at Sheffield for an award winning pie, they're famous (in the South Island at least!).
Cave Stream is a good caving trip to do if you've got some winter woolies, a torch and a friend. Situated at the carpark (off to the Left of the road heading towards CHCH) between Broken River road bridge and Craigieburn Forest Park entrance, the cave is 594meters long and takes you into another world. This is a good trip if you've not done any/much caving before but are reasonably fit. It takes about an hour to go through and will have you walking and wading through water and climbing small waterfalls. Make sure you wrap up really warm, take a friend and a torch each and it's best to walk against the flow of the water. It's a good idea to also check the weather as water outside the cave will eventually end up in the cave.
If you're heading West from CHCH towards Arthurs Pass, your last place for gas before getting to Arthurs Pass is Springfield. Don't rely on the supply at Arthurs Pass as it's more pricey so better to top up on the East Coast.
