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Kauri Coast
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The Kauri CoastThe Kauri Coast refers to a spectaculour stretch of coastline that extends north of Dargaville to the Hokianga Harbour on the west coast of New Zealand. It is named because of the large number of Kauri trees still visible along the way. It is a remote part of NZ that is well worth the time taken to get there. This is the more scenic (and longer way) to get to the Bay Of Islands. It is also worthy of a trip in its own right. Highlights Travel times
It will take you at least 4.5 hours to get to the Bay of Islands via the West Coast, while it is approximately 3 hours to the Bay of Islands straight up SH1. While the West Coast route will take you longer (narrow winding roads and more places to stop) it is definitely worth it if you have time. The contrast between the west and east coast is remarkable and if you want to see a real slice of New Zealand then you must check out the Hokianga area.
Accommodation
On the West Coast the DOC cabins at Waipoua are cheap, cheerful and unique. There is also a camping ground for those of you who prefer canvas. The facilities here are simple but good and the place is located close to a beautiful river – better still the spectacular Waipoua Kauri forest is minutes away. There are also a few options, backpackers and camping, in the Hokianga and Kohukohu areas. Food and drink
The Hokianga is not known for its food. There are no banks here and no supermarkets. If heading north the last place to stock up on supplies is Dargaville. There is however a small general store in Opononi and lots of options to buy fish and chips. There is a couple of pubs - one of which, the Opononi Hotel, serves excellent bar food. There is a good cafe (Morrell's in Waimamaku) just before Hokinaga and another one (The Boatshed in Rawane) just after. We have listed all the things to do on the way to the Hokianga in the GO (further) section. Below is a list of things to keep you occupied in and around the harbour itself. Walks - Coming over Pakia hill you will be greeted by the beautiful Hokianga and your first glimpse of the impressive north head sand dunes. Part way down the hill turn left onto Signal Station Road. Jump out of the car and do the 5 minute walk to the lookout over looking the harbour entrance (there are quite a few tracks so follow your nose until you can’t go any further). From here there is a spectacular view over the Hokianga harbour entrance (with its shifting sandbars) and across to the dune fields.
- From here there is also a walk south along the coast on the Hokianga-Waipoua Coastal Track (3 days of potential walking).
- The Waiotemarama Walk (just before the Hokianga) is good. Wander through pretty bush up to the waterfall.
Sand dunes - A boat (Hokianga Express) runs trips (on the hour) across to the massive sand dunes. The $25 price tag includes a sand board so give yourself time to ride the dunes. Flying down the sand and skimming across the sea (sometimes up to 25 metres) is pretty dam cool. Take the time to clamber over and across the dunes to the other side – here you will find some interesting sand formations carved by the wind. It is a weird and wonderful landscape and you will easily (and happily) use up a few hours here.
Opo the dolphin - Check out the statue of Opo in Opononi. Opo made this area famous in the 1950s when he would swim with people in the water. Thousands of people came to see Opo.
- To learn more about Opo watch some of the historic classic films about the dolphin in the little museum.
Labyrinth Woodworks - This place is interesting and is run by a friendly giant of a man called Louis who will challenge you to solve a range of puzzles. If you like problem solving and have some spare time go and check it out.
Rawene
- This is a funky little waterside town- on the drive there look out for Maori pa (fortified villages).
- From here you can catch the Rawene car ferry across to Kohukohu. The ferry departs on the half hour (until 7:30 pm in summer and 5:30 pm in winter) but the actual timing of each trip is actually pretty relaxed (either earlier or later). Aim to get there a little early to make sure you get on (it isn’t a big ferry).
- Rawene is an interesting place and will keep you occupied while you wait. The Boathouse café is great, although it closes pretty early.
Wairere Boulders - Continue on highway 12 and head east. If you have the time (and an adventurous spirit) turn left at Rangiahua and follow a crazy road 14 km to the Wairere Boulders. This is a unique boulder valley walk run by a very passionate Swiss couple. It costs $10 to enter but is a pretty cool place.
Ngawha Springs - At Ngawha Springs (just after Kaikohe) there are some interesting but rather run down hot pools.
Heading North to the Hokianga On your way north you may want to check out some of the following: - At Paparoa there is a crazy second hand shop, the “Trading Post”. Stop for a break and see if you can find a treasure amongst the crap (rumours are that this has closed down). If shopping isn’t your style drive down to Pahi (7 km from Paparoa) and check out the massive Morten Bay Fig tree.
- If you are into history the Matakohe Kauri Museum (signposted) is an interesting and impressive place.
- Cruise through Ruawai (NZs kumera capital) and into Dargaville. If you need a break on the way you could make a short side trip and climb Tokatoka Peak (signposted on your right when the road first reaches the river).
- Dargaville has the last shops of any size on the West Coast so stop here if you need supplies. There are also backpackers here if you want to stay. Nearby Baylys beach is a beautiful wild West Coast beach. Swimming here is pretty dodgy (Baylys has claimed a few lives in the past) so be super careful if you go in. There is a camping ground here.
- Further north on highway 12 is Kai Iwi Lakes (sign posted on your left north of Dargaville). This is a much safer place to swim and is also has a camping ground.
- You should definitely check out the Trousen Kauri park which is signposted (to the right) off highway 12 north of Kai Iwi Lakes. Here a 30 minute walk takes you through an impressive Kauri forest. The bird life is normally pretty good too and there is loads of info provided about NZ’s most famous tree. There is a loop road you can follow to get back to highway 12 so you don’t have to go back the way you came.
If you really want to see Kiwi in the wild then Trounsen provides possibly your best opportunity. Guided night nature walks are available - book at the nearby Kauri Coast Top 10 Holiday Park (09 439 0621). - Back on highway 12 you will find that you are really in Kauri country and these huge trees will start appearing more regularly as you continue northwards. Follow the signs to the DOC Info Centre (on your left). If you want to stay here continue straight past the Centre to find the DOC camping ground and cabins.
- There are a number of good walks in this area. One that we recommend is the 30 minute walk to see the second largest (and widest) Kauri tree (Te Matua Ngahere) and the Four Sisters (a group of four Kauri trees).
- But whatever you do make sure you stop and do the 2 minute walk to see Tane Mahuta. Tane is the king of the forest and reputably the biggest Kauri tree in NZ. Get a photo of yourself with this impressive 2000-year-old specimen. There are toilets by the car park and a small caravan selling hot dogs and ice cream.
- Not too much further up the road you will exit the forest and the beautiful Hokianga Harbour will come into view.
The following appear in this GOOT Route offering great deals to GOOT Passport holders. Open links to view details.
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